Romanesque Churches of North-Eastern Sardinia 0 Comments

The Romanesque churches of north-eastern Sardinia offer a unique experience, blending art, history, and spirituality within breathtaking landscapes. These sacred sites tell the story not only of the faith of the communities that built them but also of their ability to work harmoniously with the surrounding environment.
Many Romanesque churches in Sardinia reveal influences from Pisa and Lombardy, evidence of the cultural exchanges between the island and the mainland. The bichrome decorations, characterized by the alternating use of stones in different colours, are a hallmark of Sardinian Romanesque architecture. Local materials such as granite, basalt, and limestone were predominantly used, chosen not only for their availability but also for their durability.
Let us embark on a journey through an authentic and timeless Sardinia with this fascinating itinerary. Between emotional landscapes and architectural masterpieces, this route takes us through sacred sites in Anglona, Ozieri, Oschiri, and onward to Olbia and Galtellì. It’s a voyage into the silence and eternal beauty of Sardinia, where Romanesque architecture blends seamlessly with the surrounding nature.
The itinerary begins in the Anglona region, one of Sardinia’s greenest and most captivating areas. Among the countryside of Bulzi stands the Church of San Pietro del Crocifisso, an extraordinary example of Romanesque architecture. Its facade is remarkable for its bichrome decorative technique, which alternates light and dark limestone to create striking geometric patterns. Built between the 12th and 13th centuries, this church reflects the influence of Pisan Romanesque style, enriched by details that highlight the skill of local artisans. The interior is simple yet evocative, a perfect place for meditation and for appreciating the connection between art and spirituality.
Continuing toward Ozieri, the landscape transitions from Anglona’s verdant hills to the vast plains of the Campo di Ozieri and the volcanic hills dotting the horizon, change. In this territory stands Sant’Antioco di Bisarcio, one of the largest and most imposing Romanesque churches in Sardinia. This majestic church, constructed from dark volcanic stone, commands the surrounding landscape and offers breathtaking views of the valley below. Dating back to the 12th century, Sant’Antioco di Bisarcio is distinguished by its intricate architecture, featuring a spacious central nave, decorated apses, and a slender bell tower. Its isolated location adds to its allure, making it a must-see for history enthusiasts and photographers alike.
Descending toward the Coghinas River, the territory of Oschiri hosts a series of small Romanesque churches admired for their simplicity and picturesque settings. Among them, the former Cathedral of Nostra Signora di Castro stands out, located in an isolated position surrounded by pristine nature. Built from local granite, this church embodies the rustic beauty of Sardinian Romanesque architecture. Its understated interiors invite contemplation, while the surrounding area—equipped with picnic tables and benches—is perfect for a relaxing outing that combines art and nature.
A detour along the route leads to The Romanesque Church of San Simplicio in Olbia, one of Sardinia’s most significant Romanesque architectural examples. Constructed entirely of granite between the 11th and 12th centuries, this masterpiece epitomizes simplicity and solidity.
Another detour leads to Galtellì, a village rich in history and traditions. Here lies the Church of San Pietro, renowned for its Romanesque frescoes, among the oldest and best-preserved on the island. These frescoes depict biblical scenes and symbolic motifs, offering a rare opportunity to admire medieval art in Sardinia. The intimate setting of the church and the tranquillity of the surrounding village make this stop ideal for those seeking peace and inspiration.
“Dante in the thirteenth century is the last Romanesque church. Shakespeare in the sixteenth, the last Gothic cathedral.” (Victor Hugo)
--Written by Daniela Toti
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